In the wholly terrestrial 1980s, I would scour and dogear the Radio
and TV Times the day they came out, looking for rare showings of great
films and archive oddities. Channel 4 made life easy with Truffaut,
British new wave, or Marx Brothers seasons. The real plums, though,
could often be hidden in the ITV - or Thames, round our way - schedules,
maybe at one in the morning, maybe at three in the afternoon.
It
was the latter slot that broadcast The London Nobody Knows, a 1967
documentary stroll around the city with James Mason. No horseguards, no
palaces, but Islington's Chapel Market, pie shops, and Spitalfields
tenements. Carnaby chicks and chaps, the 1967 we have been led to
remember, are shockingly juxtaposed with feral meths drinkers, filthy
shoeless kids, squalid Victoriana. Camden Town still resembles the world
of Walter Sickert. There is romance and adventure, but mostly there is
malnourishment. London looks like a shithole.
The film was
directed by Norman Cohen and based on a book by Geoffrey Fletcher. When
our band, Saint Etienne, came to making our first film, Finisterre,
Fletcher was our mentor, The London Nobody Knows our first point of
reference. Fletcher is the great forgotten London writer. He went to the
Slade School of Art and drew sketches for the Guardian and the Daily
Telegraph, where he recorded the rapidly changing capital in a column
called London Day by Day.
The London Nobody Knows was first
printed in 1962, and he followed it with a string of books (London After
Dark, Pearly Kingdom, The London Dickens Knew) which all covered
similar ground. But being written in a style equal parts Max Beerbohm
and Oscar Wilde, sharpness and melancholy, it hardly mattered. The only
noticeable change was in his growing irascibility with the passing
years.
It is hard to believe he hasn't been an influence on
contemporary Londonographers. Like Iain Sinclair, he frequents areas
where "the kids swarm like ants and there are dogs everywhere": Hoxton,
Camberwell, Whitechapel. Yet he never plays the inverted snob and adores
Hampstead. Once, at a fair on the Heath, he overheard a man saying that
Hampstead wasn't thrilling enough. Fletcher reached over in the
darkness and stuck an ice lolly down the back of his shirt.
Along
with Peter Ackroyd, Fletcher shares a keen interest in public toilets,
referring to himself as an "experienced conveniologist". Among his
favourites are lavatories in Holborn where the attendant once kept
goldfish in the water tank. And, like Ackroyd, he has an obsession with
Hawksmoor: The London Nobody Knows was written at a time when one of his
pentagram of churches - Christ Church, Spitalfields - was under threat
of demolition. He relishes bad Gothic architecture and, again like
Ackroyd, feels that London's past is ever-present - the spirit of
Sherlock Holmes, Peter Pan, or Peter the Painter. Fact or fiction, or
even just "the odour of London dinners". "In spite of the passage of
time, one can feel a decided atmosphere," he reckons, in "mistressy
Maida Vale" and in London's permanent "pleasing state of decay".
Fletcher
was capturing London on the cusp, ordering his readers to look up as
they walked along the street - because that "cardboard medievalism" or
"early Oscar Wilde" (his shorthand for 1880s architecture) may be gone
before long. And, thankfully, a lot of it has.
He is rarely
sentimental ("the quick dull look of the true Londoner" sticks in the
memory) but the music halls were a loss of particular sadness for him.
In the film, James Mason walks around the ruins of the now-gone Bedford
theatre in Camden, where Marie Lloyd was a regular performer and which
Sickert frequently painted. Off the top of my head, the only music hall
he mentions that is still standing is Harwood's Varieties on Pitfield
Street, Hoxton - now some kind of warehouse. But it was the interiors
that Fletcher found particularly enchanting and they are all gone. The
remains are skeletons of "a vanished civilisation that will be as
mysterious and incomprehensible in the coming time as Stonehenge".
Still,
every so often you come across something that has survived into the
21st century. Cartwright Gardens, Bloomsbury, a down-at-heel crescent of
lodgings and seedy hotels where Fletcher lived as an art student, has
hardly changed since the 1940s. The view over to King's Cross and St
Pancras from the brow of Pentonville Road still has an odd, windswept
romanticism. James Smith's umbrella shop on New Oxford Street seemed a
miraculous survivor in 1962, let alone 2003. And then there's Ely Place,
ostensibly in Holborn but to this day officially part of
Cambridgeshire.
Where Fletcher mourned the passing of the music
halls, today it is the Italian caffs and milk bars of the 1950s and
1960s that are being wiped out in an unseemly rush. Eateries like the
New Piccadilly on Denman Street (hanging on) and Presto on Old Compton
Street (just expired) are central to the birth of British pop culture.
Mimicking the author in his absence, I'll direct you to the wonderfully
wooded Chalet on Grosvenor Street and the Copper Grill, near Liverpool
Street, which has one of the most beautiful facades in London and is due
to disappear next spring - relics as otherworldly now as Victorian
oyster rooms must have seemed in the 1960s.
No question,
Geoffrey Fletcher was obsessed with London, driven on by a mania for
exploration. He considered it not in the least unhealthy, and compared
it to Toulouse-Lautrec's obsession with Montmartre. It was his belief
that "a man can do everything better in London - think better, eat and
cheat better, even enjoy the country better". He desired a London of
human proportions and worried that office blocks would wipe out the pie
shops, Hawksmoor's churches, "the tawdry, extravagant and eccentric".
Yet this hasn't happened and probably never will. He would always be
able to find something to savour, something to sketch in a city that
constantly evolves.
The GLC should have created a heritage job
for him, to archive and catalogue the city's finest aberrations. Instead
he has left us a stack of atmospheric, thrilling documents. "In
England" he grumbled, "such things are almost always left to chance, and
a few cranks." Geoffrey Fletcher would be pleased to know that the
ambiguous melancholy of The London Nobody Knows has inspired a new
generation of cranks.
Bob Stanley @
'The Guardian' (2003)